I Heart Macarons

I just received the book I Love Macarons (Chronicle Books, 2009) by Hisako Ogita, and it inspired me to make macarons for the first time in a long time. It is a charming little book (only 80 pages) which outlines in great detail the method for making perfect French macarons every time. It also offers lots of flavor ideas and options as well as recipes for various fillings and desserts to use up those leftover egg yolks. The book includes lots of step-by-step photos as well as images of brightly colored macarons in a rainbow of flavors. Since I love pistachio, I opted to make pistachio macarons with pistachio buttercream (I used my own recipe for the buttercream). The batter color lightens as it bakes, so next time I would add a little more food coloring for the shells (though I really don't like neon colors, so I'd rather err on the side of making them too light than too dark). Next up--how about pumpkin macarons for Thanksgiving?

Pistachio Macarons

Macaron shells adapted from I Love Macarons. Pistachio Buttercream recipe from The Cake Book.

Makes about 24 macarons

Pistachio Macaroons:

2/3 cup almond flour or meal (available at health food stores)

1 ½ cups confectioners’ sugar

1/3 cup ground pistachios (ground in food processor as finely as possible)

3 large egg whites, at room temperature

1/3 cup granulated sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

2-3 drops green food coloring

Pistachio Buttercream:

¾ cup granulated sugar

1/4 cup water

2 large eggs, at room temperature

14 tablespoons unsalted butter, slightly softened (it should be cool)

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

2 tablespoons pistachio paste (available at health food stores)

2-3 drops green food coloring

Make the macarons:

1. Line a baking sheet with a silicone mat or parchment paper.

2. In a food processor, process the almonds with the confectioners’ sugar until well blended. Sift the mixture through a medium-mesh sieve into a bowl. Stir in the finely ground pistachios and set aside.

3. In the bowl of an electric mixer, using the whisk attachment, beat the egg whites on high speed until foamy. Very gradually add the granulated sugar and beat until stiff and glossy. Add the vanilla and green food coloring and beat until blended.

4. Add half of the sifted almond mixture and fold it in with a spatula. Add the remaining almond mixture and mix it in a light circular motion. Press and spread out the batter against the side of the bowl. Scoop the batter from the bottom of the bowl and turn it upside down. Repeat this motion about 15 times (no more, no less). When the batter becomes nicely firm and drips slowly as you scoop it with the spatula, it is ready to be piped.

5. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 375 degrees F. Fit a pastry bag with a .4-inch plain tip (Ateco #4). Scrape the batter into the bag. Pipe out 1-inch rounds of batter onto the prepared baking sheet, spacing them ½ inch apart. Rap the baking sheet firmly against the counter. Dry the batter at room temperature, uncovered, for 15 minutes. The batter circles should not stick to your finger when you touch them. If they do, let them dry a little longer.

6. Stack the baking sheet with the macarons on it on another baking sheet. Place both sheets, stacked, in the oven and bake the macarons for 15-18 minutes, until slightly crisp (they will crisp more upon cooling). Cool completely on a wire rack.

Make the buttercream:

7. In a small, heavy saucepan, combine the sugar and water and cook over medium heat, stirring constantly and occasionally brushing down the sides of the pan with a wet pastry brush, until the sugar dissolves. Remove the pot from the heat while you start beating the eggs.

8. In the bowl of a heavy-duty electric mixer, using the whisk attachment, beat the eggs at medium speed until the sugar syrup is ready.

9. Place the sugar syrup over high heat and cook, without stirring, until it reaches 238°F on a candy thermometer. Remove the pan from the heat and with the mixer off, immediately pour about 1/4 cup of the hot syrup over the beaten eggs. Beat at high speed until blended, about 10 seconds. Turn the mixer off and add another 1/4 cup syrup. Beat at high speed for another 10 seconds. Repeat this process until all of the syrup is used. Using a rubber spatula, scrape down the side of the bowl and continue to beat at medium-high speed until the egg mixture is completely cool, about 5 minutes.

10. Beat the softened butter, 1 tablespoon at a time, into the egg mixture at medium speed. Add the vanilla extract, pistachio paste, and green food coloring, increase the speed to medium-high, and beat the buttercream until it is smooth and shiny, about 4 minutes. (The buttercream must be used at room temperature.)

Assemble the macarons:

11. Scrape the buttercream into a pastry bag fitted with a .4 inch plain tip (about the same size as you used to pipe the macarons). Pipe a grape-sized dollop of buttercream onto the underside of a macaron. Gently press the underside of another macaron against the buttercream until it spreads almost to the edge. Repeat with the remaining macarons and buttercream. Store the macarons in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 2 days. They can also be refrigerated for up to 5 days.

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Absolutely Chocolate (and Peanut Butter)

I've been a fan of Fine Cooking magazine since their first issue fifteen years ago. It's come along way since then--it's a lot slicker-looking now, with better photos and glossier paper. But it still has the same great tips and high level of detail in each recipe. Now they've released a great chocolate book, Absolutely Chocolate: Irresistible Excuses to Indulge (The Taunton Press, 2009). The book includes info on how chocolate is made, how to choose the right chocolate for baking, when to use cocoa vs. chocolate, how to decipher labels, and much more. There are 125 recipes, which include layer cakes, tarts, pies, muffins, cookies, brownies, candies, sauces and even hot chocolate. The recipe I picked out to test-bake combines two of my favorite flavors: dark chocolate and peanut butter, a culinary match made in heaven. The tart turned out to be pretty heavenly, too.

Chocolate-Glazed Peanut Butter Tart

Adapted from Absolutely Chocolate by the editors of Fine Cooking magazine

Crust:

1 cup finely ground chocolate wafers

2 tablespoons granulated sugar

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, melted

Filling:

1 ½ cups whole milk

¼ teaspoon table salt

3 large egg yolks

½ cup firmly packed light brown sugar

4 teaspoons all-purpose flour

½ cup creamy natural peanut butter

½ teaspoon vanilla extract

Glaze:

3 ounces bittersweet chocolate, chopped

4 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into 6 pieces

1 tablespoon light corn syrup

Make the crust:

1. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Have ready an ungreased 9 ½-inch fluted tart pan with a removable bottom.

2. In a medium bowl, mix the cookie crumbs and sugar until blended. Add the melted butter and mix with a fork until the crumbs are evenly moistened. Put the crumbs in the tart pan and use your hands to spread the crumbs so that they coat the bottom of the pan and start to climb up the sides. Use your fingers to pinch and press some of the crumbs around the inside edge of the pan to cover the sides evenly and create a wall about a scant ¼-inch thick. Bake the crust for 8-10 minutes, until fragrant. Cool completely.

Make the filling:

3. In a medium saucepan, bring the milk and salt to a simmer over medium heat, stirring occasionally. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, whisk the egg yolks, brown sugar and flour until well blended. Slowly add the hot milk, whisking constantly. Pour the mixture back into the saucepan. Cook over medium heat, whisking constantly, until it thickens and comes to a full boil, about 3 minutes. Continue to cook, whisking constantly, for 1 minute. Remove the pan from the heat and add the peanut butter and vanilla; whisk until well blended.

4. Pour the hot peanut butter mixture into the crust and spread evenly with a spatula. Gently press a piece of plastic wrap directly onto the filling’s surface to prevent a skin from forming. Refrigerate the tart until cold, about 2 hours.

Make the glaze:

5. Melt the chocolate with the butter and corn syrup in a medium metal bowl set over a pan of simmering water (don’t let the bowl touch the water) and whisk until the butter is melted and the mixture is smooth, about 1 minute. Carefully remove the plastic wrap from the top of the filling. Drizzle the glaze over the filling and spread it evenly to cover the tart completely. Refrigerate the tart in the pan until the glaze sets, about 30 minutes and up to 12 hours.

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Chocolate with a Hump

The one product that really stood out in my mind at this year's New York Chocolate Show was the Al Nassma Camel Milk Chocolate, billed as the "World's First Camel's Milk Chocolate." Yes, it is made with camel's milk. (Who even knew that camels had milk?) And yes, you can buy a big, hollow chocolate camel to serve as the centerpiece of your child's Easter basket (talk about confusing). Or scatter some mini solid camels amongst the jelly beans. This unique milk chocolate is the brainchild of Martin van Almsick, a very pleasant German man who is the former manager of the Chocolate Museum in Cologne. You may well ask how this chocolate tastes. Well, it has a mild flavor that is slightly tangy. Not as tangy as yogurt, but tangy-er than cow's milk. In short, it's not bad. If you found yourself in the middle of the desert and found a piece of Al Nassma in your pocket (probably a little melty), you would most certainly devour it.

Al Nassma's product line also includes five 70-grams bars in these flavors: Arabia (flavored with local spices); Date; Macadamia Nut and Orange; 70 percent Cocoa; and Whole [Camel] Milk. The hollow chocolate camels are available in two sizes,130- and 730-gram. For more info, visit www.al-nasma.com.

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NYC Chocolate Show 2009, Day One

Today I went to the Chocolate Show in NYC, where Dessert Professional magazine presented the Top Ten Chocolatiers in North America. These outstanding chocolatiers handed out samples at the Dessert Professional booth throughout the day (and will continue to do so for all three days of the show), allowing show-goers to get a taste of their craftsmanship and learn more about each company. The list included one of my favorite chocolatiers, Markus Candinas (his Elderflower bonbon is pictured above) from Verona, WI. His philosophy about chocolate is simple: “ We use the best ingredients, make our chocolates fresh, and use methodology that others have either not yet discovered or simply neglect to employ.”

The result is a small assortment of chocolates that are perfectly balanced in flavor and texture. I told Markus today that I suspected he was a perfectionist, and he reluctantly nodded. “Sometimes that can be a problem,” he said. Not for us, though! To learn more about Markus and his chocolates, visit www.candinas.com. The remainder of the list of Top Ten Chocolatiers includes: Jacques Torres (Jacques Torres Chocolates), Drew Shotts (Garrison Confections), Thomas Haas (Thomas Haas Chocolates), Jeff Sherpherd (Lille Belle Farms Hand Made Chocolates), Julian Rose (Moonstruck Chocolates), Norman Love (Norman Love Confections), Michael Recchiuti (Recchiuti Confections), Jin Caldwell (Ethel's Chocolate) and Pat Coston (2 Chicks with Chocolate).

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The Craft of Baking

Karen DeMasco is my kind of pastry chef. Ever since I sampled a tasting of her desserts at Craft several years ago, I was sold (she's now the pastry chef of Robert De Niro's restaurant Locanda Verde in NYC). Her desserts are simple, and simply delicious. They are perfectly balanced, with an emphasis on flavor and elegance. Almost as exciting as her desserts is the fact that Karen has just released her first cookbook, The Craft of Baking (Clarkson Potter, 2009).After perusing the book, I immediately wanted to make everything in it. It was hard to pick one dessert, but I ultimately settled on a gorgeous chocolate tart, which is a perfect example of Karen's combination of style and elegance. You'll also find a multitude of uses for the tender chocolate sable dough, which is delectable. Cheers to you, Karen, for a wonderful book that I will undoubtedly use over and over.

Chocolate Custard Tart

From The Craft of Baking by Karen DeMasco

Chocolate Sable Dough:

1 cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour, plus more for dusting

1/4 cup unsweetened cocoa powder

1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

10 tablespoons chilled unsalted butter, cut into small pieces

1/3 cup granulated sugar

2 tablespoons egg that has been well blended

Chocolate Custard Filling:

5 ounces bittersweet chocolate (70%), roughly chopped

4 ounces semisweet chocolate (62%), roughly chopped

1 1/4 cups heavy cream

2/3 cup whole milk

1/4 cup granulated sugar

2 large eggs

1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

Make the dough:

1. In a bowl, sift together the flour, cocoa powder and salt.

2. In the bowl of an electric mixer fitted with the paddle attachment, beat the butter and sugar on low speed until there are no visible pieces of butter, about 3 minutes. Add the measured amount of egg and mix just until incorporated. Add the flour mixture in three additions, mixing each in completely before adding the next.

3. Turn out the dough onto a lightly floured work surface. Shape into a flattened disk, wrap in plastic wrap and refrigerate for at least 1 hour, or overnight.

Bake the crust:

4. On a lightly floured work surface, roll out the dough to an 11-inch round. Roll the dough onto a rolling pin, center it over a 9 1/2-inch tart pan with a removable bottom, and fit it into the pan, pressing the dough into the edges. With a paring knife, trim the excess dough right to the top edge of the pan. Prick the bottom all over with a fork, and freeze until firm, about 10 minutes.

5. Preheat the oven to 350 degrees F. Line the chilled tart shell with aluminum foil or parchment paper, leaving a 1-inch overhang, and fill it with pie weights or dried beans. Set the tart pan on a baking sheet, and bake for 15 minutes. Remove the foil and pie weights, rotate the pan, and continue baking until the crust is fragrant and feels dry to the touch, 15 to 20 minutes more. Place the baking sheet on a wire rack and let the crust cool completely. Reduce the oven temperature to 275 degrees F.

Make the filling:

6. Combine the bittersweet and semisweet chocolates in a mixing bowl. Pour the cream, milk and sugar into a small saucepan and bring to a boil, stirring to dissolve the sugar. Pour about one-third of the hot cream mixture over the chocolate and very gently whisk together until the chocolate is melted. Add the remaining cream mixture and gently whisk to combine.

7. Whisk the eggs in a bowl until well combined. Pour about one-third of the chocolate mixture over the eggs and gently whisk just to combine. Return the egg mixture to the chocolate mixture, add the salt, and very gently whisk until smooth.

Bake the tart:

8. Filled the cooled crust with the chocolate custard. Carefully transfer the tart, on the baking sheet, to the oven and bake, rotating the sheet halfway through, until the edges of the custard are set and the center is slightly loose, about 30 minutes. Transfer the tart to a wire rack and let it cool completely. Remove the outer ring of the tart pan, and serve at room temperature. The tart is best eaten the day it is baked, but can be kept at room temperature, loosely covered in plastic wrap, for up to 2 days.

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Pot Luck

Chicken Pot Pie could be the most soul-satisfying comfort food ever created. It's certainly right up there with Macaroni and Cheese, no doubt. I loved Swanson's rendition as a child (it was a treat my sisters and I relished when Mom and Dad went out for the evening), and I still like to make a down-home, double-crusted version when I have the luxury of time. When I don't, I make an abbreviated pie using frozen puff pastry. The filling's the same (and still takes some time to prepare, that's for sure), but the dramatic puff topping elevates the pie to a more upscale entree. The filling can also be made up to a day ahead, and actually benefits from some time in the refrigerator. And the frozen puff is always ready to go, tucked in the back of the freezer. So satisfy your soul as well as your palate with a pot luck dinner.

Chicken Pot Pie

Makes 5 servings

2 boneless, skinless chicken breast halves

2 cups chicken stock or broth

1 large potato, peeled and cut into ½-inch cubes

8 tablespoons unsalted butter, divided

1 medium red onion, chopped

3 large carrots, peeled and diced

5 ounces mushrooms, sliced

¼ cup all-purpose flour

Milk or chicken broth, as needed

2 sprigs fresh thyme

1 tablespoon lemon juice

A few splashes Worcestershire sauce

Kosher salt and freshly ground pepper, to taste

¾ cup frozen baby peas

2 sheets frozen puff pastry, thawed

1 egg yolk, whisked with 1 teaspoon water

1. Place the chicken breasts in a Dutch oven or deep skillet and pour chicken broth on top. Add enough water so that the chicken is just covered. Bring to a simmer, then reduce heat so that it is just below a simmer. Cook for about 15 minutes, or until chicken is cooked through. Remove chicken from broth and set aside to cool.

2. Add potato cubes to broth and bring to a boil. Reduce heat and simmer until potatoes are tender. Drain potatoes and place them in a bowl, reserving broth in another container.

3. Melt 2 tablespoons of the butter in the Dutch oven. Add the onions and sauté for 2 minutes. Add the diced carrots and cook for 2 more minutes. Add some of the reserved broth (about ½ cup) and continue to cook until carrots are tender, adding more broth if necessary. Add carrots and onions to bowl with potatoes.

4. Melt 2 more tablespoons butter in Dutch oven and sauté mushroom slices. Add to bowl with other veggies.

5. Shred chicken into bite-sized pieces. Preheat oven to 375 degrees F.

6. Melt remaining 4 tablespoons butter in Dutch oven. Whisk in flour and cook, while whisking for 1 minute. Measure out reserved broth and add enough milk or chicken broth to make 3 cups. Gradually whisk this into flour mixture. Add thyme sprigs and bring to a boil and cook, whisking constantly, until thickened. Add lemon juice, Worcestershire sauce and salt and pepper until it tastes balanced (and good).

7. Add frozen peas and cook for a minute until they are heated. Add shredded chicken and veggies. Remove thyme sprigs (if you can find them). Spoon mixture into 5 oven-proof 8-ounce ramekins or casseroles.

8. Place sheet of thawed puff pastry on a lightly floured work surface and roll it out just a little to flatten folds. Cut sheet into 4 squares. Brush edge of casserole with egg yolk and top with puff square. Press edges against casserole and brush top with egg wash. Repeat with remaining puff and casseroles. Place pot pies on baking sheet and bake for 20-30 minutes, until golden brown. Serve immediately.

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Nuts To You!

I went with a group of my friends last night to see a great off-broadway show, Lizzie Borden. It was an off-beat musical that recounted the tale of the alleged nineteenth-century New England murderess, and it was a fabulous production, full of energy, spice, great music and singing. Before the show, we all met at the beautiful apartment of my friend Megan Kent (the branding guru) for wine and appetizers. To lessen the burden on our busy host, we all brought along an appetizer or two. I contributed some white bean dip and crostini and Spicy Caramelized Almonds, one of those unassuming little nibbles which are downright addicting. They're sweet, spicy and crunchy with notes of ginger, cumin and sesame. They can be made several days ahead of time, and keep for at least a week, so they're a good choice for a party, when you have lots of last-minute preparations. And it did cross my mind that they were an appropriate choice for pre-Lizzie Borden fare--sweet, yet with a spicy, dark side.

Spicy Caramelized Almonds

Makes 1 ½ cups

1 teaspoon salt

1 teaspoon ground ginger

¼ teaspoon ground cumin

¾ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes

3 tablespoons sesame seeds

¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons granulated sugar, divided

1 tablespoon vegetable oil

1 ½ cups whole almonds, blanched*

*Note: If you can’t find blanched almonds, buy natural ones with the skin on. Plunge them into boiling water for about 30 seconds, then drain. The nuts should easily slip out of their skins. Once they are blanched, toast them in a skillet over medium heat for a few minutes to dry them out.

1. In a medium bowl, combine the salt, ginger, cumin, red pepper flakes, sesame seeds and 2 tablespoons of the sugar; set aside. Have a nonstick baking sheet ready.

2. Heat the oil in a skillet over medium heat. Add the nuts and cook, stirring constantly, until they are fragrant, but not colored. Sprinkle the remaining ¼ cup sugar over the nuts. Cook, without stirring, shaking the pan frequently to prevent burning. When the sugar starts to caramelize, stir the nuts so they are evenly browned and caramelized.

3. Immediately add the nuts to the bowl with the spice mixture and toss to coat them evenly. Spread the nuts out onto the nonstick baking sheet. Using a fork, separate the nuts as much as possible. Once cool, transfer to an airtight container. They will keep (if you can prevent yourself from eating them) for at least a week.

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Cheesecake-To-Go

When I'm looking for a dessert that's quick to prepare and a guaranteed crowd-pleaser, cheesecake's at the top of my list. It's creamy, rich, and the ideal medium for a host of flavors. One of my favorite cheesecakes is a simple, lemon-scented one topped with strawberries. No gooey cornstarchy gel topping, just sliced strawberries macerated in a little sugar. I also like to make this cheesecake in individual portions, in muffin cups. No slicing, no sharing. Bliss in a cup.

Strawberry-Topped Cheesecake Cups

Makes 12 servings

Storage: refrigerated, in a covered container, for up to 3 days.

Graham Cracker Crusts:

1 cup (4.2 oz/120 g) graham cracker crumbs

1 tablespoon (.4 oz/12 g) granulated sugar

4 tablespoons (2 oz/57 g) unsalted butter, melted

Cheesecake filling:

12 ounces (340 g) cream cheese, softened

3/4 (5.3 oz/150 g) cup granulated sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

1/2 teaspoon finely grated lemon zest

1/8 teaspoon salt

2 large eggs

1 large egg yolk

1/2 cup (120 ml) sour cream

Strawberry Topping:

1 pint fresh strawberries, washed, hulled and cut lengthwise into quarters

3 tablespoons granulated sugar

1 teaspoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

Make the crusts:

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 325°F. Line 12 standard muffin cups with paper liners.

2. In a medium bowl, stir together the graham cracker crumbs and sugar until blended. Stir in the melted butter. Divide the mixture among the muffin cups and using your fingers, pat it into an even layer on the bottom of each cup. Bake the crusts until they are very lightly browned and fragrant, 5 to 7 minutes. Cool the crusts on a wire rack while you make the filling. Make the filling:

3. In the bowl of an electric mixer, using the paddle attachment, beat the cream cheese at low speed until creamy and smooth, about 2 minutes. Gradually add the sugar and beat for another minute, until well blended. Blend in the vanilla extract, lemon zest, and salt. Add the eggs and yolk, one at a time, scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary and mixing until well blended. Add the sour cream and mix until combined. Remove the bowl from the mixer stand and stir the filling a few times by hand to make sure it is smooth and well blended. Ladle the filling into the muffin cups, filling it to the top.

4. Bake the cheesecake cups for 20 to 25 minutes, until the tops begin to crack and the centers are set. Set the pan on a wire rack and cool completely (the cheesecake cups will sink slightly in the center as they cool).

Make the topping:

5. In a bowl, combine the strawberries, sugar and lemon juice and let stand at room temperature for 20 minutes.

6. Arrange about 4 strawberry pieces, cut side down, on top of each cheesecake cup and spoon some of the remaining liquid on top. Serve the cups immediately or refrigerate until ready to serve.

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Tish Boyle, (Former) Celebrity-For-A-Day

Yesterday I was thrilled to announce that I was the official "Author of the Day" on www.cookstr.com. If you had clicked on cookstr.com then, you would've been able to share in my glory. If you visit the site today, you'll see the smiling face of the new celebrity du jour. Like Cinderella, I have now returned to the obscurity to which I'm so unfairly relegated (and to which I've grown so accustomed). But back to Cookstr. In a unique partnership with many of the best cookbook publishers, Cookstr.com is a new online destination for a broad collection of recipes from some of the best chefs and authors, including James Beard, Jamie Oliver, Nigella Lawson, Mario Batali, and dozens more. The site was founded by a team of seasoned culinary professionals whose philosophy is that good food starts with good ingredients, and that eating responsibly and deliciously is within everyone’s grasp. Cookstr.com’s extensive database of recipes includes a wide variety of recipes for all skill levels, making it an appropriate source for professionals as well as amateurs. The site also includes biographies of each featured chef or author and superior proprietary search tools. So get cookin’ and visit cookstr.com soon.

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Heavenly Hostess

I am proud to say that as a child, I had impeccable taste in desserts. Of the pre-packaged, ready-to-eat variety, my #1 favorite was the classic Devil Dog. #2 on the list, however, was that pinnacle of elegance, the chocolate Hostess cupcake, with its characteristic squiggle of white icing across the top. Without the squiggle, it would've been just a chocolate cupcake. But that wave of icing indicated it was a Hostess cupcake, with a cloud of cream filling hidden inside. Superb. Have you tried a Hostess cupcake lately? I hate to say it, but you might be just a little bit disappointed. The iconic snacks of our childhood just don't hold up to our fussy adult standards. Which is why I decided to do my own take on this memorable snack. My version features a chocolate fudge cupcake filled with a basic American-style buttercream. It's topped with an ultra-shiny chocolate glaze, and a signature squiggle of royal icing. The result is much prettier than the machine-made version and, dare I say, tastes a lot better. You can easily double this recipe (you won't have to double the glaze or the Royal Icing). The second time you make them, I guarantee you will. Serve these at your next dinner gathering and you are certain to be the Hostess with the Mostest.

Better Than Hostess Cupcakes

Makes 12

Chocolate Fudge Cupcakes:

3/4 cup plus 2 tablespoons all-purpose flour

1/2 cup alkalized cocoa powder

1/2 teaspoon plus 1/8 teaspoon baking soda

1/8 teaspoon salt

6 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened

3/4 cup granulated sugar

1 large egg

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

3/4 cup sour cream

Cream Filling:

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened

3/4 cup confectioners’ sugar

1/4 cup heavy cream

1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract

Chocolate Glaze:

4 ounces semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped

1/2 cup heavy cream

2 tablespoons light corn syrup

Royal Icing Squiggle:

2 cups confectioners' sugar

3 tablespoons liquid pasteurized egg whites

1 tablespoon warm water

Make the cupcakes:

1. Position rack in center of oven and preheat oven to 350°F. Line a 12-cupcake pan with paper cupcake cups.

2. In a medium bowl, sift together flour, cocoa powder, baking soda and salt. Whisk to blend and set aside.

3. In the bowl of an electric mixer, using the paddle attachment, beat the butter on medium-high speed until creamy, about 30 seconds. Gradually add the sugar and beat at high speed until light, about 3 minutes. Reduce the speed to medium and add the egg, mixing well and scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary. Mix in the vanilla extract. Reduce the speed to low and add the dry ingredients in three additions, alternating them with the sour cream in two additions and mixing just until blended. Divide the batter among the cupcake cups and bake for 20 to 25 minutes, until a toothpick inserted into center of a cupcake comes out clean. Cool cupcakes in pans set on wire racks for 15 minutes. Remove cupcakes to racks and cool completely.

Make the filling:

4. In an electric mixer, using the paddle attachment, beat the butter at medium speed until creamy, about 1 minute. Gradually add the confectioners’ sugar and beat at high speed until, about 3 minutes. Add the cream and beat for another minute. Scrape the filling into a pastry bag fitted with a 1/4-inch plain or star tip.

Fill the cupcakes:

5. Use a paring knife to cut a small X in the center of the bottom of each cupcake. Hold a cupcake upside-down, letting your fingers rest on the top of the cupcake (which is now the bottom). Poke the pastry tip three-quarters of the way into the cupcake and squeeze in some filling, stopping when you feel a slight pressure on the top of the cupcake. Repeat with the remaining cupcakes. Set the filled cupcakes aside while you make the chocolate glaze.

Make the glaze:

6. Place the chocolate in a medium bowl. Combine the cream and corn syrup in a small saucepan and bring to a boil. Pour over the chocolate and stir until the chocolate is completely melted and the glaze is shiny. Dip the top of each cupcake in the glaze, tapping to remove the excess. Place the cupcakes on a wire rack and let the glaze set for 30 minutes. (You will have some glaze left over. Store it covered, in the refrigerator, for up to a week. The reason you make more than you need is that it’s easier to dip the cupcake in a larger amount.)

Make the Royal Icing Squiggle:

7. Combine all the Royal Icing ingredients in the bowl of an electric mixer. Beat on high for 5 minutes, scraping down the bowl occasionally. Scrape some Royal Icing it into a small parchment cone or a pastry bag fitting with a writing tip. Pipe a row of curlicues horizontally across the center of each cupcake. Serve the cupcakes at room temperature or slightly chilled. They can be stored, covered, in the refrigerator for up to 3 days.

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Demel: A Touch of Vienna in the Heart of NYC

The other day my good friend Nick Malgieri and I went to Demel, the New York branch of the iconic Viennese pastry shop. The new shop is located among the retail stores at the Plaza Hotel, set alongside a soothing carp pond on the lower level. It is such an elegant setting, with luxurious banquettes, marble-topped cafe tables and glass display cases filled with beautifully decorated cakes and pastries. We sipped cappunccinos (or is it 'cappuccini'?), sampled many of the delicious classic Viennese cakes, and chatted with Jemal Edwards, the Executive Pastry Chef and one Dessert Professional magazine's Top Ten Pastry Chefs of 2009. Nick is writing an article on Demel for Dessert Professional, wanted to take some photos of the cake and shop, and I went along for the ride. Among the cakes we sampled was the famous Dobostorte, thin layers of vanilla biscuit sandwiched with chocolate buttercream and topped with triangles of caramel-coated shortbread. We also tasted the Fachertorte, layers of poppy seed paste, walnuts, apples and plums, all encased in short dough. The Viennese love their poppy seeds, and this cake is an example of an old-world classic. The Fragilite is a lovely pastry made with ultra-thin almond meringue which has been lightly soaked with rum and filled with a mixture of praline paste, chocolate and butter.

This is a dangerous little pastry--it's incredibly rich, yet seems so light. While Nick was snapping a photo, in fact, I ate the whole thing. (He muttered something about me being "greedy, greedy, greedy," but I just couldn't help myself. It's a dog-eat-dog world, after all.) My favorite cake, though, was undoubtedly the Dorrytorte, a flourless chocolate cake with a sunken center. The sunken part is filled with a light chocolate mousse, slightly mounded. So simple, yet so delicious. I might have to try this one at home. Demel also has an extensive selection of chocolates and confections, all exquisitely packaged by hand in Vienna. If you have a chance, stop by Demel for a piece of cake and a coffee. It's not inexpensive, but it's much cheaper than a flight to Austria. For more info, visit www.demel.at.

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Coconut Dream Pies

Eating or drinking something coconut-flavored--pina coladas, Almond Joy bars, coconut cream pie--always transports me to another place, another time. Usually it's a tropical resort, with friendly island natives catering to my every whim. Sort of like Gilligan's Island, with waiters. And speaking of Gilligan's Island, how is it that Mary Ann was able to whip up those beautiful coconut cream pies without having access to fresh cream? And where did Ginger get all that mascara? Ponder these and other questions while you enjoy these adorable (and delicious) Little Coconut Cream Pies. And don't forget to change into your bikini (I'll be wearing a one-piece with a substantial cover-up, for sure--that way I can eat more pie).

Little Coconut Cream Pies

Makes 6 small pies

Flaky Pie Crust:

2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

1 1/2 teaspoons sugar

1/4 teaspoon salt

6 tablespoons (3/4 stick) unsalted butter, cut into 1/2-inch chunks and frozen

3/4 cup solid vegetable shortening, frozen

6 to 8 tablespoons ice water

Coconut Filling:

2/3 cup granulated sugar

1/4 cup cornstarch

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 cup coconut milk (not cream of coconut)

1 1/2 cups whole milk

4 large egg yolks

3 tablespoons unsalted butter, cut into tablespoons

1 3/4 cups sweetened shredded coconut (toast 1/2 cup of it for 7-8 minutes in a 350 degree oven--this is for the garnish)

2 teaspoons vanilla extract

Whipped Cream Topping:

1 3/4 cups heavy cream

3 tablespoons confectioners’ sugar

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

Make the dough:

1. Place the flour, sugar and salt in a food processor fitted with the metal chopping blade and pulse on and off until combined. Scatter the butter pieces and the shortening, in large chunks, over the flour mixture. Pulse the machine on and off until the mixture resembles coarse meal. Add 6 tablespoons of the ice water and process until the mixture just starts to come together. (If the dough seems dry, add the remaining 2 tablespoons water as necessary. Do not allow the dough to form a ball on the blade, or the resulting crust will be tough.)

2. Turn the dough out onto a work surface, divide it in half, and shape each half into a thick disk. Wrap the disks separately in plastic wrap and chill for at least 2 hours.

Roll out the crusts:

3. Have ready six 5-inch pie pans (not tartlette pans). Lightly flour a large work surface. Allow the dough to soften at room temperature just until it is pliable (about 20 minutes). Place 1 disk on the floured surface and sprinkle some flour over it. Roll the dough from the center out in every direction, flouring the work surface as necessary to prevent sticking. You want a round about 1/8 inch or slightly less thick. Cut out 2 6 1/2-inch circles from the dough and press each circle into a pie pan. Trim the edges of the dough with scissors, leaving about 1/2 inch of overhang. Tuck the overhanging dough underneath itself, pressing it onto the rim of the pan. Flute the edge by pinching the dough from the outside in a V shape with your thumb and index finger while poking the center of the shape with the index finger of your other hand from the inside. Repeat with the remaining dough and pans, gathering up the scraps and rerolling them as necessary to make 6 pie crusts. If you like, brush the edges of the crust with an egg yolk whisked with a little water.

Bake the crusts:

4. Preheat the oven to 400°F. Line each pie crust with a square of lightly buttered aluminum foil, buttered side down, covering the edge of the crust so that it doesn't get too brown. Fill the lined crust with pie weights, dried beans, or raw rice. Bake the pie crusts for 15 minutes. Remove the weights and foil. Prick the bottom of the crust well with a fork and bake the crust for another 10-12 minutes, or until the edges are golden and the bottoms are baked through. Cool the pie crusts on a wire rack.

Make the Coconut Filling:

5. In a medium saucepan, stir together the sugar, cornstarch, and salt until well combined. Gradually whisk in 1/4 cup of the coconut milk to form a smooth paste. Whisk in the remaining coconut milk and the whole milk. Place over medium heat and bring to a slow boil, whisking constantly. Remove the pan from the heat.

6. In a medium bowl, whisk the egg yolks until smooth. Whisk about 1/2 cup of the hot coconut mixture into the yolks, then return the yolk mixture to the saucepan. Raise the heat to medium-high and bring to a boil, whisking constantly. Continue to boil, whisking constantly, for 1 minute, or until very thick. Remove from the heat, scrape the bottom of the pan with a spatula, and whisk until smooth. Whisk in the butter pieces until melted. Whisk in the vanilla and 1 1/4 cups of the untoasted coconut (reserve the remaining 1/2 cup toasted coconut for garnish). Divide the warm filling among the pie crusts and press a piece of plastic wrap directly on the surface of each pie filling. Refrigerate the pies for at least 4 hours, or until thoroughly chilled.

Make the Whipped Cream Topping:

7. In an electric mixer, using the whisk attachment or beaters, beat the cream on medium-low speed for 30 seconds. Increase the speed to medium-high and add the confectioners' sugar and vanilla. Beat until the cream forms stiff peaks.

8. Scrape the whipped cream into a pastry bag fitted with a medium star tip. Pipe rosettes over the chilled pies and sprinkle with the reserved toasted coconut. Serve immediately or refrigerate until ready to serve.

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The Tang's All Here

Years ago, buttermilk was what the liquid left over after churning butter was called. It was thick and rich and had little flecks of butter in it. Today buttermilk is made commercially by adding special bacteria (as opposed to random, kitchen-floor-type bacteria) to lowfat or nonfat milk. It gives the milk a thickened consistency and tangy flavor. I can't drink it straight, but I do love the flavor of buttermilk when it's combined with other ingredients. I decided to incorporate it into a subtly flavored lemon ice cream, adding it to the hot custard base just after it's made. The ice cream has a lovely tang, and pairs deliciously with fruit and berries.


Lemon Buttermilk Ice Cream

Makes 2 quarts

1 quart milk

1 cup heavy cream

1 1/3 cups granulated sugar

1/4 cup lemon zest (from about 5 medium to large lemons)

2 large egg yolks

1 cup buttermilk

1. Combine the milk, cream and 1 cup of the sugar in a large saucepan. Add the lemon zest and bring to a boil over medium-high heat. Remove from heat.

2. In a bowl, whisk the yolks with the remaining 1/3 cup sugar until blended. Whisk about 1 cup of the hot milk mixture into the yolks. Return this mixture to the saucepan with the remaining milk and cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon, until the mixture reaches 175°F on an instant-read thermometer (this should happen very quickly). Remove from heat and stir in the buttermilk until blended.

3. Strain the base through a fine-mesh sieve into a bowl. Place bowl in an ice bath and stir until cool. Cover bowl and chill for at least 6 hours.

4. Process in an ice cream machine according to the manufacturer’s instructions. Scrape the ice cream into an airtight container and freeze for at least 4 hours before serving.

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Chocolate Charge

There's something about an individually baked cake that is especially endearing. As a gift, it says that someone baked this whole thing just for you. Not for you to share--this little cake is yours alone for you to enjoy where and when you like. Wrapped in clear cellophane bags and tied with a ribbon, a miniature cake is an ideal way to say 'thank you,' 'I'm sorry', or 'congratulations.' It's amazing how something so simple will generate such a heartfelt reaction in its recipients. These chocolate cakes are the ultimate little gifts. They're packed with chocolate. A good amount of cocoa powder gives them a deep chocolate flavor, while slivers of bittersweet chocolate ratchet up the chocolate intensity. Sometimes I serve them with just a sprinkling of confectioners' sugar, other times I coat them with a rich chocolate glaze. Either way, they're simply delicious.

Individual Chocolate Buttermilk Cakes

Makes 6 individual cakes

Storage: in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 5 days.

Special Equipment: one 6-cake Bundt-lette pan

1 cup (4 oz/114 g) cake flour

1/2 cup (1.6 oz/46 g) Dutch-processed (alkalized) cocoa powder

1 teaspoon baking powder

1/4 teaspoon salt

3/4 cup (1 1/2 sticks/6 oz/170 g) unsalted butter, softened

1 1/4 cups (8.8 oz/250 g) granulated sugar

2 large eggs

3/4 cup (180 ml) buttermilk 2 tablespoons (30 ml) Kahlua (optional)

1 teaspoon vanilla extract

4 ounces (113 g) finely chopped bittersweet chocolate or 3/4 cup miniature semisweet chocolate morsels Bittersweet

1. Position a rack in the center of the oven and preheat the oven to 350°F. Generously grease the interior of a 6-cake Bundt-lette pan (it's best to use shortening here). Dust the molds with flour and tap out the excess.

2. In a medium bowl, sift together the flour, cocoa powder, baking powder, and salt. Whisk to combine and set aside.

3. In the bowl of an electric mixer, using the paddle attachment, beat the butter at medium speed for 2 minutes, until very creamy. Gradually beat in the sugar. Increase the speed to medium-high and beat for 3 minutes, until the mixture is well blended and light. At medium speed, beat in the eggs one at a time, mixing well after each addition and scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary.

4. In a small bowl, stir together the buttermilk, Kahlua, and vanilla extract. If your mixer has a splatter shield attachment, attach it now. At low speed, add the dry ingredients to the butter mixture in three additions, alternating it with the buttermilk cream mixture in two additions, and mixing just until blended. Remove the bowl from the mixer stand and stir in the finely chopped chocolate or miniature semisweet morsels. Scrape the batter into the prepared cake molds, dividing it evenly and smoothing the tops.

5. Bake the cakes for 25 to 30 minutes, until a cake tester inserted into the center of a cake comes out clean. Cool the cakes in the pan set on a wire rack for 10 minutes.

6. Invert the cakes onto the rack and cool completely.

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Classic Peanut Butter Cookies

Peanut butter is an American staple. Europeans scoff at our attachment to this sticky brown substance, but, hey, French supermarkets sell quite a bit of Nutella (I should know, because I ate a ton of it when I was a poor culinary student in Paris decades ago), and the Brits dote on their Marmite, after all. God-awful stuff, that Marmite (my mother used to eat it on her toast). Anyhow, I still eat peanut butter now and then, and I love to incorporate it into my desserts, especially with chocolate. But here's one of my favorite pure treats, a classic all-American peanut butter cookie. Crispy on the outside and chewy on the inside, they are chock-full of chopped peanuts and pure peanut butter flavor. I recommend you bake these on an insulated baking sheet, as directed, to ensure that the cookies don't over-brown on the bottom. If you don't have one, stack two heavy-gauge baking sheets--it will work just as well. And don't forget the ice-cold milk, to accompany them.

Peanut Butter Cookies

Makes 36 cookies

Storage: in an airtight container at room temperature for up to 5 days.

2 1/2 cups all-purpose flour

2 teaspoons baking powder

1/2 teaspoon baking soda

1/4 teaspoon salt

1 cup (2 sticks) unsalted butter, softened

1 cup creamy peanut butter (not the all-natural kind), at room temperature

1 cup granulated sugar

1 cup firmly packed dark brown sugar

2 large eggs

1 tablespoon vanilla extract

3/4 cup chopped unsalted peanuts

1. In a medium bowl, combine the flour, baking powder, baking soda and salt; set aside.

2. In an electric mixer, using the paddle attachment or beaters, beat the butter and peanut butter together at medium speed until smooth. Gradually beat in the granulated and dark brown sugars. Beat in the eggs, one at a time, scraping down the side of the bowl between additions. Beat in the vanilla extract. At low speed, beat in the dry ingredients and chopped peanuts until blended. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate the dough for 30 to 45 minutes, until the dough has firmed up.

3. Preheat the oven to 350°F. Lightly grease an insulated cookie sheet. Using a 1-ounce ice cream scoop, scoop 9 portions of the chilled dough onto the cookie sheet, spacing them evenly. Using your palm (wet it first, to prevent sticking), flatten each scoop so that each cookie is a 2-inch disc. Using a fork, making a cross-hatch indentation in the center of each cookie. Bake the cookies for 10-12 minutes, until they are golden around the edges, but still soft in the center. They will firm up as they cool. Transfer the cookies to a wire rack to cool completely.

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